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Specialized FSR stumpjumper carbon 2014 SRAM crankset removal

By jacojoco - Posted on 08 July 2015

NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.

Looking to remove cranks to grease up BB. On the web appears I can use 10mm hex to remove non drive side crank, but on the bike it says "do not remove" and the drive side crank has the instructions to use 10mm hex, the direction to tighten and the torque. I am confused, which side do I loosen to remove. For some reason I can't download manuals at the moment.

Do I ignore the "do not remove" non drive side hex? I am used to Shimano not SRAM? Appreciate any advice so I can calm the creaks.


You're welcome to borrow my big-ass torque wrench and hex bits if needed.

Do the drive side and you will need lots of leverage to loosen it off. my suggestion is to use a braker bar. Along with someone sitting on the bike putting pressure on the pedals as its reverse threaded you will be spinning with the freewheel so there will be nothing to apply pressure against. Sram stuff from the factory is stupidly over torqued.


to remove sram cranks , u should only need an 8mm allen key,
on the non drive side, the crank are self extracting and preloaded
if factory installed, probably tight as hell, good luck
grease splines and reinstall
for 2 peice cranks ...
3 peice cranks different story

what model crank?

Put the bike pedal against a wall and applied brakes and stepped on long handled hex tool and it gave. Unscrewed and it all popped out easily. Greased up. Pretty painful putting back together trying to keep cranks aligned and get screw to take.

All done now and silent and smooth. Thanks for the advice. I think I prefer Shimano, but these have less parts to undo. I think I used a 8mm or 9mm hex.

they are, try it with Cerebral Palsy
but once on, set and forget
until u hear it again

No need for a breaker bar with the right size torque wrench.

I use the Park Tools TW-6 for the cranks and a Pro 2-20Nm unit for the smaller parts. Eliminates guesswork, eliminates things coming lose and eliminates over tightening and damaging parts. Especially where carbon is involved.

Tried getting a non-bike specific unit but the dual-direction ones (necessary for things like bottom brackets and pedals) cost an arm and a leg. Park are a bargain by comparison.

And they've paid for themselves several times over already.

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